Seoul: There's a distinct scent on the streets of Seoul, one that lingers in the memory and marks the city's neighborhoods with unique signatures. Although I originated from the countryside, my years spent living in the capital have transformed me into a true Seoulite, adept at identifying these varied scents. Gangnam offers an air of sophistication and indulgence, its nightlife bursting with energy. The streets, adorned with brilliant LED lights, exude youth and luxury, with the unmistakable scent of wealth permeating the atmosphere.
According to Yonhap News Agency, Jongno 3-ga in northern Seoul presents a stark contrast to Gangnam. Here, the scent is one of soju, the traditional Korean spirit, filling small shot glasses. Locals often referred to this area as "Jong-sam." The neighborhood, home to landmarks such as Tapgol Park and Jongmyo Shrine, is frequented predominantly by elderly men in worn clothing. These men, many of whom hail from across Gangbuk, gather here for various reasons-free meals, spontaneous street performances, or to sell low-cost goods from roadside stalls. Walking through Jongno feels like stepping back in time, where set menus still cost 2,000 won ($1.36) and signs advertising "Unlimited side dishes, makgeolli sold here" can be found. A simple haircut is priced at just 5,000 won.
On particularly lonely days, a visit to Jongno for a haircut provides a sense of comfort. While my children assume I frequent a fancy salon, the truth is, if you want your hair washed, it only costs an extra 500 won. Jongno may be one of the last places where a 500 won coin holds significant value.
Jongno's scent is distinctive, embodying the fatigue of life itself. It is a scent absent in places like Apgujeong or Cheongdam. To Korea's baby boomers, Jongno represents more than just a street; it is a vessel of memories and nostalgia. Many of them were born in rural towns, attended middle and high school in nearby cities, and migrated to Seoul for university. During those times, they resided in cramped boarding houses, with most of their social activities-blind dates, drinking nights-centered around Jongno.
Post-drinks, they would occasionally venture to Sinchon for a second round, in an era predating Hongdae and Gangnam's rise as cultural hotspots. For Korea's middle-aged and older generations, Jongno is a street laden with significance.
Whenever I stroll through Jongno's lanes, a particular song resonates in my mind: "Yesterday, I walked alone / Through rain-soaked Jongno streets," from Lee Jang-hee's "It Was You" (1989). On days marked by solitude and melancholy, a walk through Jongno offers a poignant journey through time.