Singapore: Grilled fish on a generous bed of numbing chilies and peppercorns from Chongqing, cumin-laced lamb skewers from Xinjiang, and fiery rice noodles flavored with snails from Guangxi rivers are just some of the offerings on Liang Seah Street in Singapore. Chinese cuisine is experiencing a significant moment outside of China, driven by success and competition within the country, and nowhere is this more evident than in Singapore, where ethnically Chinese people form a substantial portion of the multicultural population.
According to BBC, Luckin, China's equivalent to Starbucks, launched its first overseas store in Singapore in March 2023, and within two years, the chain expanded to over 60 locations. Last month, Luckin ventured into the US market with two new stores in New York. Five major Chinese brands, including Luckin, currently operate 124 outlets in Singapore, doubling their presence since 2023. The presence of large, bright advertisements featuring chili-laced dishes and Chinese idioms in malls, buses, and subway stations further underscores this culinary wave.
Thomas DuBois, a historian of modern China, explains that succeeding in Singapore serves as "proof of concept for later expansion," reassuring investors that the chain is ready for global growth. Singapore's diversity makes it an ideal test kitchen for varying palates, ranging from South Asian to European flavors. Furthermore, as a travel hub, Singapore is known for its culinary culture, where dining is nearly a national pastime.
The new wave of Chinese culinary entrepreneurs aims to showcase the vastness and diversity of Chinese cuisine, moving beyond common dishes like dumplings and hot pot. Many visitors to Singapore, including those from Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Manila, and Jakarta, have a sophisticated understanding of Chinese cuisine. Claire Wang, marketing manager for the Hunan-based chain Nong Geng Ji, emphasizes the unique flavors of Hunan cuisine, characterized by a tangy aftertaste from fermented chili peppers, distinct from Sichuan's numbing-spicy or Guizhou's sour-spicy flavors.
After launching over 100 restaurants in China, Nong Geng Ji expanded to Singapore in late 2023 and has since opened additional outlets in Malaysia, Canada, and plans to explore opportunities in Thailand, Japan, South Korea, and the US. This trend reflects a growing appetite for Chinese-style chilies, which would have pleased China's former leader Mao Zedong, who famously believed, "You can't be a revolutionary if you don't eat chillies."
For those who prefer less fiery dishes, the variety includes steamed buns, red meats, preserved vegetables, rice, stir-fries, and delicately-flavored seafood. This contrasts with the simplified "Chinese food" that became popular in the West, often tailored to local tastes with dishes like orange chicken and chop suey in the US, and chow mein and sweet-and-sour chicken balls in the UK.
Fuchsia Dunlop, in her book "Invitation to a Banquet," argues that these basic dishes obscured the complexity and sophistication of Chinese gastronomic culture. Additionally, the myth of "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome," suggesting food-related sickness from additives like MSG, has been debunked by recent research.
The growing Chinese diaspora is enabling restaurants to remain true to their roots, catering to customers who demand authentic Chinese cuisine. As palates become more adventurous globally, more Chinese restaurants are offering fine-dining experiences. Thomas Tao, vice-president of the Green Tea Restaurant chain, recalls the lack of Chinese fine-dining in New York during his student days in the 2010s, a stark contrast to the popularity of Japanese sashimi.
Now, the Green Tea Restaurant chain, with over 400 outlets in China, offers fresh seafood and savory soups from Zhejiang and plans to open its first Singapore location this month. The dining experience extends beyond food, with "immersive" restaurants featuring guzheng music and boat-shaped tables surrounded by landscapes reminiscent of the West Lake in Zhejiang.
Mr. Tao aims to challenge misconceptions about Chinese cuisine, stating, "We want to help people be more accepting of our culture and to correct the idea that Chinese cuisine is lousy." Sichuan Alley, another chain, opened in New York last year, inspired by the "alley culture" of early 20th-century Chengdu, where people gathered to eat and socialize.
The expansion of Chinese restaurants abroad prompts the question of whether Chinese cuisine can soften the image of a nation often at odds with Western powers and neighbors. In her book, Dunlop suggests that Beijing might project its soft power more effectively by transforming its controversial Confucius Institutes into top-notch Chinese restaurants.
With international challenges like tariffs, espionage concerns, and economic apprehension, the proliferation of Chinese restaurant chains raises concerns among local businesses in Singapore. Facing stiff competition in China and a spending decline, these chains are expanding overseas rapidly with robust supply chains, marketing expertise, and financial resources that allow them to prioritize expansion over profit.
Their strategy involves offering free memberships with discounts, complimentary tea, dipping sauces, and pickled vegetables. Notably, tissues—essential after a spicy meal—are offered free of charge, unlike in many Singaporean restaurants.
This surge in Chinese culinary exports echoes previous anxieties in Southeast Asia over Chinese imports in other sectors, such as clothing and electronics. However, some believe that food can bridge these gaps. Felix Ren, director of Singapore-based food consultancy WeMedia, highlights the diplomatic potential of Chinese cuisine, drawing parallels to the table tennis matches that eased tensions between Beijing and Washington in 1971. "Chinese cuisine," he suggests, "may just be the new ping-pong diplomacy."